It has to be done when in Harlem. Especially in an authentic speakeasy style joint nestled in a basement on W. 133rd St. Known as ‘Swing Street’ in the 30’s for its plethora of jazz clubs then playing host to such jazz icons as Duke Ellington, Louis Armstring, Thelonious Monk, Count Basie and Charlie Parker to name but a few. Amazing to think we were sitting right there where these jazz behemoths once played.
I was lucky enough to find Bill’s Place after a bit of research. It certainly looked authentic enough. And the reviews were good. So we gave it a try.
We were greeted at the door with “You’re here, so good to see you” as if we regularly graced the joint with our presence. Bill’s wife was charming and a beautiful hostess. We felt incredibly welcome.
The venue itself is on the lower ground floor of one of those typical new york town houses, red brick with stairs up to the main door, and fire escapes. A plaque on the door reads ‘Billie Holiday discovered here in 1933’. Isn’t that amazing?
Upon entry you are welcomed into a long narrow room with the seats all along one side. The band right there in the middle on the left. Only room for about 30 people. The poor guys sat in front of Bill must have been slightly deaf by the end of the gig. They were very close, and he was very loud.
We had a brilliant position though. Able to clearly see and hear everybody in the band.
Bill is known for his ‘hard bop’ style, a sort of heavier grungier bebop developed in harlem. I have always liked jazz so it was easy for me to understand. Lots of swirling scales and circular breathing. He didn’t often take a breath. But when he did the others shone too. I wish I could play piano like that. Very clever stuff.
No drinks are served here. You bring your own. So the $30 entry fee is for the band and the venue which is really a good deal considering you are seeing some truly wonderful musicians. I’d thoroughly recommend anyone to go if ever in New York. It was well worth braving the cold.
Jazz.
