We have conquered a few kilometres now.
The odometer reads nearly 207000 miles. We bought the car with 197000 so that’s 10000 miles since buying her in February. And, my, my, what a journey we’ve had!
Today we drove out of Matagalpa, a typical Nicaraguan town of modest size. Noisy and a little smelly, but a hub for the far northern Nicaraguan explorers which we are. We found an unexpectedly excellent Italian restaurant hidden away down a dark alley patrolled by the usual armed security guard. Best pasta I have had since Sicily for sure. Al dente to perfection. Dani ordered the biggest pizza I have ever seen assuming it would be more pequeño than it actually was. We couldn’t finish it. But all the food was delicious. And only 18 dollars for a starter, beers and mains. What’s not to love about Nicaragua. I used to justify living in London by saying you can get anything anywhere anytime. But, here, you can get that too only far, far cheaper!
We had decided on a stop in a national park called Miraflor. I had read about it and wanted to visit. It’s also on the way to the border with Honduras. Daniela, as usual, trawled her go to apps and found us the most beautiful, serenely peaceful place in the park. It’s gorgeous. She knew I would love it. And it’s only us. But they have kittens too! So she will be very happy.
The flora and fauna here is very different. We are at a higher altitude. Coffee growing is the norm. And with it comes a change in scenery. It reminds me of wales funnily enough, just a little more temperate. Beautiful trees covered in lichen dangling profusely from every limb. Rampant bird life, literally, mating everywhere, an ornithologists dream. Pairs roost and nestle on verdant branches. The colours are iridescent. Humming birds (you don’t find them in wales) hover right by us. A bird with a beautiful red collar chills in a tree not too far away. It’s gorgeous. We have been to many places and experienced many climates. Rainforests, dry forests, deserts, tropical beaches, but this is on another level (altitude).
The inhabitants here are predominantly farmers. Fincas dot the landscape, some displaying success and many good harvests, others more subsistent and generally poor. But they seem to live in harmony. The guys we are staying with are the latter for sure. Mud floors in their kitchen and animals everywhere. The main man, the Padre, said he only recently realised that there are more than two languages, Spanish and English! Education here is more about the immediate necessities I guess. Kids learn young how to farm, tend the animals and obey their religion. We were privileged to have witnessed the most wonderful gathering of all the locals on the farm for a Saturday afternoon worship. Yes there was some preaching but there was also the most joyous and harmonious singing. It made me realise how important religion is for people here. It brings them together and expresses unity. I was humbled by the experience.
This is also a protected zone. And it shows. No rubbish, no overzealous deforestation. It is sparsely populated so probably an easy coexistence to maintain. Wildlife abounds. Everything is so green and lush. A truly wonderful place frozen in time oblivious to the progress in the rest of the world.
But I think the most pleasant thing about it for me is that the temperature is cooler. We have sweltered and sweated for months now. And, lovely as that is, it is nice to get a breath of fresh air and relief from the damp heat of lower places.
We stayed for a couple of days. Went for a trot on horses. I find horse backs by far the best way to experience nature at its best. Open to the smells and sounds of wildlife undisturbed by the slow clip clop of your steed. We passed farmers tilling the earth with oxen and a wooden plough, various shacks, homes to families and children, barefoot, happily playing in the mud.
This is Eden. Of course, you can still see and hear the trappings of progress. The dogs yapping, the occasional motorbike carrying three up, proudly wearing the Indio colors and lorry air brakes in the distance. But you also hear the beautiful birdsong, the crickets, the wind in the foliage. Everything is green, lush, vibrant and alive. Here, nature is firmly in control.
On leaving our farm, we gave Marcel, our host and his friend a lift to Esteli carrying various items of produce for their friends in the town. It was a pleasure to offer them a ride and fun to listen to their conversation as we drove the bumpy road. At one point their conversation turned to a herd of cows and Marcel’s friend commented on what fine udders one cow had. He seemed very envious and excited at how much milk they must carry “at least 10 litres!”. It was like having my son in the back getting all excited about the sports car overtaking us “it must be at least six litres and look at that exhaust”. My how things are different for us.
Pura vida.
